Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Still more photos from Carcassonne


With organist and composer Jacque Charpentier.



The organ -- short pedal keys!


More photos from Carcassonne




Outside the dungeon.



The fortress at night.

Carcassonne






These photos are from Carcassonne, a town located about 50 miles southeast of Toulouse. It stands in the gap between the Pyrenees and the Massif Central of France. Carcassonne is at the crossing of two major traffic routes in use since Antiquity: the route leading from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean and that from the Massif Central to Spain, skirting the Pyrenees.
Carcassonne includes ancient ramparts and towers, some parts dating from the fifth century, during the time of the Visigoths, and others from the 11th to the 13th century. The fortress was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1997.


Thursday, August 9, 2007

La Verna, Italy

La Verna is a place of pilgrimage. St. Francis of Assisi received his stigmata during his stay here. It was a time for a retreat for me.





Photo: On the way to La Verna. Though this mountain looks like it has been altered, the formations are natural.


Photo: The convent of La Verna.




Photo: View from the Convent


The convent is in the mountains at more than 1,300 meters (4,200 feet) altitude. Therefore it was very cool and fresh compared to the secular world -- which is much lower in terms of altitude. I spent several hours looking around and meditating.



Photo: Cave where St. Francis recieved the stigmata.





Photo: St. Francis was wearing this habit when,
two years before his death in 1226,
he received the stigmata on Mount La Verna.





Photo: Fresco that is about the life of St. Francis of Assissi.



Photo: Statue of St. Francis.

Since there was no place to go to eat, I had every meal in the convent refectory. For the first two meals, I sat by a lady from Australia. We had nice conversations about our trips and our view on Italian people.

After she left, I couldn’t find anyone who spoke English there besides a monk-organist who is English-Italian. So at the table I tried to carry on conversation with whatever I could.

Several times, I sat with a signor who works for the museum in the convent. He spoke a bit of French, which was helpful.

As our conversation continued, he naturally turned back to Italian, but spoke very slowly for me. Strangely, I could get what he was saying. When I hear Italians speaking, I usually have no idea about what they are saying. But when he spoke very slowly on purpose, I could pick up words that are very similar to French and could get what he meant.

We even talked about on some serious things. I brought up St. Francis of Assisi, and said I think he had a great faith in God but in my opinion ‘suffering’ is not necessary to reach God even though it could make us stronger. I kept saying that when a miserable thing happens to me, if it is unavoidable, I will accept and try to find its meaning.

Whereas he thinks our life is about getting through the miserable things and that helps us attain to God -- if I got him right.

The concert went well. This time I didn’t open my mouth but only played, since there was a monk who gave an explanation on the entire program. The Basilica was packed and I was well received.

The other memorable thing is that I saw my old friend Eun-ju Kim whom I have not seen for 15 years. I knew that she settled in Italy and is very successful in her career. Dr. Kim is a specialist in Gregorian Chant and Middle age music and teach at Verdi Conservatory, Milano, and travels around the world with her husband. Her husband, Giacomo Barrofio is a living authority in the same field. While I was still living in Europe, we tried to see each other, but missed several times. This time they came over to see me from Cremona, which is six hours away from La Verna.


Photo: My friend Eun-ju Kim.
This trip was one of the most refreshing and memorable ones to me so far.

Ravenna, Italy

When I arrived in Bologna, the higher temperature struck me first -- It was around 90 degrees (32 degrees Celsius).

I had to wait for a bit of time to get my luggage after my flight. By chance, I took a look outside and saw the workers that were moving luggage from the airplane into the building SO SO slowly. I couldn’t help laugh, reminding myself that I was in Italy.

I have had to recall several times that Italians are not overly punctual. For example, after playing in Ravenna, I had to take a taxi to la Verna which is 2 hours away. The city of la Verna kindly promised to send me a taxi, and said that it would arrive at my hotel by 9:30 a.m.

At 9:50 a.m., when no one had shown up, I called the person in Ravenna who was the liaison to see if there was anything wrong. She kindly reminded me that I was in Italy and asked me to be patient.
Imagine what time the taxi driver showed up! It was 10:15 a.m. when a tall Italian guy in his forties with a big smile showed up to pick me up -- calling me ‘Maestro.’ I felt like I should begin my concert in la Verna 30 minutes later than planned…

I love Italy and its people. Italians are very warm, hospitable, and friendly. In some sense, they are like Texans. They are very expressive people and their level of reaction about things is quite impressive. I love hanging around Italians. It is just fun and relaxing.

Photo: Ravenna Square



Photo: They use the word "piano" to say floor


My first concert in this tour in Italy took place in the basilica of St. Vitale, Ravenna, which is one of the oldest churches in this country.






Photo: Entrance to St. Vitale

It was built in the sixth century. It is in Byzantine style, and includes fabulous mosaics on the wall, the floor, and the ceiling. Ms. Satori, who is the director of this festival, showed me around this edifice, including the tomb of Queen who promoted the Christianity during the Roman Empire.





Photo: Tombs from around the fifth century




Photo: St. Vitale exterior



Photos: St. Vitale mosaics





Photo: St. Vitale organ

During our conversation we found out that we have some mutual friends. I still find the world in not that big, even though it often looks so.

We both agreed about the tendency of modern culture that is inclining towards extreme pop culture and materialism and wished that another Renaissance would come as it did in the past, sooner rather than later.

Friday, July 27, 2007

Photos from St. Bertrand de Comminges






Photos from Orleans





Photos from Toulouse





Montmorency concert

I just came back from Montmorency, which is north of Paris. J.J. Rousseau used to live in this city and completed a lot of his essays there. It takes only 1 hour by train -- I actually commuted instead of staying at a hotel there.

I played for the Festival 'tourisme et orgues'. It rained but about 300 people gathered at the concert, and they were very warm and welcoming.

I spoke on the pieces during the concert (bien sure en francais!) and it seems that the audience really appreciated it. They are not used to have an musician that speaks during the concert in Europe -- this is something that I learned in the US.

The concept of the organ was done by composer J. Charepentier. It was built by Gonzalez, who also built the organ at Chartres cathedral.

You will find a website on this concert at
http://www.ville-montmorency.fr/content/heading604/content67000.html

I am feeling much better now, but I was very tired during last couple of days, since I have been doing things all the time -- including moving into my apartment. I am staying at Cite Internationale des Arts, which is located in the heart of Paris across from Notre Dame and Saint Louis en ile. It is in one of the most beautiful areas in Paris.

I can see Notres Dame and Bateau-Mouche in la Seine through my window.

I used to live here when I was studying in Paris. As an old resident, they let me to stay here for two months and it is wonderful.

But coming back here, I observe things that I usually did not. I took a look at the parking garage carefully and was astonished by the outrageous monthly rate! Thanks to God that I am living in Hurst!

Paris has changed. Mr. Delanoe, the mayor, has promised its citizen that he will improve the air quality by diminishing the number of cars. They have made a good number of small parking lots for bicyclers and they are very cheap so that any one can afford them.

Thet decided not to let the cars run on the road beside the Siene so that people can walk, run, and ride bicycles. I ran alongside La Seine this morning. It was so cool. And that was something I couldn't imagine doing when I lived here.

When I have some down time, I will be visiting corners of Paris that are not yet familiar to me.

Comminges concert

I have known about Festival du Comminges for a long time. It is one of the main classical music festivals in France and is 'sous le haut patronage du president de la republique' like 'Grand Prix de Chartres'. (Under the high patronage of the president of the republic.) The town has been famous for this prestigous festival for the past 32 years.

St. Bertrand de Comminges is a small rural town in southwest of France, near Spain. I spent more than 14 hours in the train for the round trip from Paris.

When I looked at the name of artists who have already played for this festival, I felt so so honored. They include Marie-Claire Alain, Cecilia Bartoldi, Alfred Brendel, Aldo Ciccolini, Alicia de Larrocha, and Korean artists such as Somi Jo and Kun-woo Paik -- to name only a few.

Every year, they also feature M. Chapuis, professor emeritus at Conservatoire National Superieur de Musique de Paris. He is one of the figures who has rediscovered early music in the late 20th century.

Here is the festival's web site: www.festival-du-comminges.com

The organ I played was in Neo Baroque style and was very gorgeous. The console was covered by a wooden cover; therefore I could not hear the balance of the entire organ well without a headphone.

Since it is a popular tourist area, in the audience were people from Korea, Japan, America, Italy, Germany, Spain, France, and so on.

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Orleans concert

Orleans is one hour south of Paris. Chartres and Blois are cities in the region. This area of France has some wonderful chateaux. Unfortunately, I will not have a chance to visit them this time.

Orleans was the place that was mentioned quite often in nobles and has been used for titles of music throughout French history. A big part of the town was heavily destroyed during the war, but was restored well.

The Cathedral Ste. Croix where I played did not undergo damage in the war -- thanks to God! One interesting thing about this edifice is that its towers have crowns on top of them as a decoration.

The cathedral houses two Cavaille Coll organs. The big one in the balcony is being restored.

When I arrived last Friday, the builder, Bernard Hurvy, was still working and he let me take a look at each corner of the organ. He has already successfully restored the choir organ that I played for the concert.

He is supposed to "restore" the organ -- in other words, put the organ back to its original state, which is different from rebuilding.

He let me try the positive division that was already put back, and some stops in swell as well. They really sounded round and warm! It was an 'ah ha!' moment for me. "This is the kind of sound that attracted me to French organ!"

After having dinner with Bernard, we came back to the cathedral to practice and work more. It was during that moment that the swell pedal got broken. Bernard kindly stayed until midnight to repair it without complaining. He was supposed to leave the next day at dawn. I said to myself, "You broke it at the right moment!"

The concert took place Sunday afternoon. An audience of more than 300 surrounded the choir organ. I spoke on each piece in a casual way before playing (of course, en francais). I liked the set up and lay out of the concert very much.

The audience surrounded me. We could face each other and it helped make the communication a lot better. They were very warm and enthusiastic. There were some journalists from local newspapers.

I met a lady from Carollton, TX. She was the third Texan I have met during this trip.

Since Paris is only one hour away from Orleans, I got back to Paris last night after concert -- wishing that I'd be able to hear the big organ when its resoration is complete.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Photos from Monaco (set 3)




The Harbor


Outside the Royal Palace.

Photos from Monaco (set 2)



The famous organist next to a poster for his concert.

Playing around with the camera on the organ console at Monaco Cathedral.

Monaco Cathedral.

Inside the cathedral.

Aquarium